Nanotechnology in cosmetics: technical advantages and regulatory concerns explained
Nanotechnology in cosmetics is not science fiction: it's been in skincare and sunscreens for decades, but only now is it being communicated to consumers. EU Regulation 1223/2009 imposes precise labeling obligations for nanomaterials, and brands must know what to declare and what it means.
What nanomaterials are in cosmetics
According to EU Regulation, a nanomaterial is an insoluble or biopersistent substance with dimensions between 1 and 100 nanometers. The most common in cosmetics are:
- Liposomes and nanosomes: lipid vesicles that carry actives (vitamins, peptides) through the stratum corneum.
- Nanometric zinc oxide and titanium dioxide: used in physical sunscreens to improve transparency and spreadability.
- Fullerenes: antioxidants with carbon cage structure.
- Nano-silver: antibacterial used in some deodorants (today highly regulated).
Technical advantages
Nanometric size confers properties that larger molecules don't have:
- Deeper penetration through the hydrolipidic film, down to the granular layer.
- Controlled and prolonged release of the active over time.
- Stabilization of normally unstable actives (retinol, vitamin C).
- Better sensory appeal (transparent sunscreens instead of white).
Labeling obligations
Since 2013, it's mandatory to declare the presence of nanomaterials on the label by adding "(nano)" next to the INCI name of the ingredient. Example: "Titanium Dioxide (nano)". The manufacturer must also notify nanomaterials to the CPNP portal at least 6 months before placing on the market.
Consumer concerns and how to manage them
Consumers perceive "nano" as potentially dangerous. Current scientific literature shows no systemic risks for cosmetic nanomaterials applied on intact skin, but communication must be handled carefully. Some brands clearly declare use and benefits; others prefer nanomaterial-free formulas for a "clean" positioning.
The choice depends on the target: expert and educated consumers appreciate transparency, while brands positioned on "natural and simple" prefer to avoid to not complicate the narrative.
Bellanova and nanomaterials
Bellanova Cosmetics develops formulas with and without nanomaterials. In case of use, we manage all specific nanomaterial CPNP notifications and draft the PIF with the required toxicological data. We advise client brands on communication most suitable to their positioning. Nanotechnologies are a powerful technical tool: to be used where needed and declared where required.
